REYNOLDS FAMILY WINERY DINNER

Last night I had the privilege of attending a wine dinner for the Reynolds Family Winery at Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse in Ft. Worth. These are always educational (and fun) because each course is matched up with a specific wine. And when you're drinking wine of the quality that Steve Reynolds produces, it makes for a really special night. Here was last night's menu and the wine that accompanied each course, along with my impressions of the wines.

*Not responsible for over-productive saliva glands.

Passed Appetizer-Grilled Zucchini Ribbon & Melted Gruyere Sandwich

~Paired with the 2006 Reynolds Family Chardonnay, Napa Valley. These were small, open-faced sandwiches. (Confession #1: The first one I picked up fell right off its plastic spear and onto the floor, so I put down my glass of wine and used two hands for the next one.) It was incredibly tasty, as was the wine. It wasn't a big, over-blown buttery style, but more of a crisp, refreshing Chardonnay with apple, pear and minerals. There was a hint of vanilla on the finish.

1st Course-Almond Custed Georges Bank Sea Scallops

~Paired with the 2006 Reynolds Family Pinot Noir, Los Carneros. I love scallops, and these were done up perfectly; juicy and tender. They were served with two different chutneys: dark cherry and apricot. I actually felt the apricot chutney was too sweet for the Pinot, which displayed lovely ripe cranberry and cherry, with a touch of cola and herbs.

2nd Course-Seared Beef Tenderloin with Crawfish Etoufee and Dirty Rice

~Paired with 2003 Naughty, Juliana Vineyard, Syrah, Napa Valley. The "Naughty" label was started by Steve Reynolds and another winemaker, but it is my understanding it is now entirely Steve's. All the Naughty wines have a picture of a baby in a little devil's suit, but the wines are serious stuff. This Syrah had big, dark berry fruit, leather and tobacco. It was silky, rich and very sleek. I think this wine has greatly benefited from its time in the bottle. Oh, and the tenderloin? Grilled to perfection (medium-rare), and the spicy crawfish etoufee and dirty rice were a perfect complement.

3rd Course-Broiled Lamb Porterhouse with Red Wine Hollandaise

~Paired with 2005 Reynolds Family, Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. This course was probably my favorite, because I got an extra porterhouse after my partner at Tivoli, Laurie, just couldn't eat it. I was the envy of all the other men (and some of the women) at the table as I ate the second one. And the sauce was exquisite; rich and buttery, with a streak of red wine sauce down the middle, kind of like a certain swoosh associated with a popular shoe. The wine showed ripe blackberry, bell pepper, and cigar box, with a firm tannic structure and long finish. I thought it showed very well, especially paired with the lamb, but will be even better in a few years.

Dessert-"Torta Formaggio"; Chocolate brownie layered with Amaretto Soaked Angel Food Cake and sweetened Mascarpone, White Chocolate, and Creme Anglaise.

~This might have been the best dessert I've ever had. And the piece was huge...I couldn't finish it. Maybe I could have if I hadn't had that second piece of lamb...oh well.

Confession #2: I had brought a magnum (1.5L) of 2005 Fourteen, Napa Valley Meritage for Steve to sign. The bottle belonged to Tivoli, and I thought it would be neat for him to autograph it. "Fourteen" is a tribute to the fourteen appellations in the Napa Valley... every appellation is represented in the blend, and Steve is a founding partner in this wine. Even with the air-conditioning blowing, the 100+ degree temperature was too much for the wine during the 30 minute drive to Del Frisco's. The cork had started to make its way out of the bottle. That is what happens when bottled wine is exposed to too much heat; the nitrogen in the bottle is heated, pushing the cork out. With the magnum now being unsellable, there was really only one other option... drink it! The wine itself was fine, it hadn't sustained any damage. In fact it was better than fine; it was amazing. Dense, ripe blackberry and raspberry, hints of damp earth and chocolate, velvet mouth-feel and an elegant but long finish. And here's the best part: Steve said he'd replace it for us! Which is welcome news. I really wasn't looking forward to shelling out the money myself!

Steve Reynolds surrounded by Tivoli Wines' Laurie McCauley and the author, holding the magnum of Fourteen.

"A man cannot make him laugh - but that's no marvel; he drinks no wine."
~WM. SHAKESPEARE, Henry IV Part 2

THE BOLD AND THE BEAUTIFUL

Like the seasons, my mood for wine changes (although usually with more frequency). Sometimes I prefer soft and elegant, like a Pinot Noir. Other times I'll want something complex and structured, like a Bordeaux or California Cabernet. And then, there's the past couple of weeks, where I've been in the mood for big and bold.

The first one of these was a "Thunder from Down Under" style of Australian Shiraz, the 2007 Mollydooker, "The Boxer". This is another great wine from the wonderful team of Sarah and Sparky Marquis. Check out their web site; it is rather entertaining. So are their wines. Some wines are just fun to drink, and that is certainly the case here. "The Boxer" has a full-throttle style that never lets up. Inky and purple in color, with loads of dark, sensuous and concentrated fruit, with just the right amount of floral and wooden notes to give it balance and complexity. Jay Miller from The Wine Advocate scored it at 93. The price tag is around $25-$30 ($28 at Tivoli Wines).

The next two wines are both from Orin Swift. I have been a huge fan of winemaker/proprietor Dave Phinney since he launched Orin Swift. The first is the inaugural release (2007) of Saldo; a wine consisting of 85% Zinfandel, 10% Syrah, and 5% Petite Sirah. Mr. Phinney has created a gorgeous wine using grapes from Sonoma, Napa, Amador, Mendocino, and Contra Costa counties. This wine is full of ripe raspberry and boysenberry, with layers of smoke, pepper, anise and licorice, and zesty tannins round to out the finish. Quite tasty, and worthy of the 91 points it received from The Wine Spectator.

Last but certainly not least, we come to Orin Swift, The Prisoner. This was the first Orin Swift wine I ever tried. I remember walking around the California section at Wally's, and saw this new wine with the bizarre name and even more bizarre label. Then I looked at the blend: Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Charbonno. This is what I call a "mad scientist wine". Other people call them "kitchen sink wines". Regardless, they are certainly original concepts. I had bought three bottles of the 2005 The Prisoner, and this represented the last one, so it was not without some lament that I popped the cork. But what a wine! It was rich and decadent, with copious blackberry and boysenberry fruits, accents of spice and tea, tobacco, mocha and vanilla. When I came back to it the next night, however, the opulence had given way to a more elegant style, with a silky texture. The flavors were all still there, but instead of a "mosh pit", they were now dancing a Waltz, all in perfect step with one another. This wine scored a 93 from The Wine Spectator, and ranked 17th on their Top 100 for 2007.

Now that is what I call Bold and Beautiful!


"A man cannot make him laugh - but that's no marvel; he drinks no wine."
~WM. SHAKESPEARE, Henry IV Part 2