"I AM NOT DRINKING ANY *%!# MERLOT!"

When Paul Giamatti's character Miles uttered those famous words in the film Sideways, it set the Merlot world on its side. As is often the unfortunate case, if it is said in a Hollywood film, it is perceived as Gospel.

Quick side note: The two grapes Miles shows disdain for in the film (the aforementioned Merlot and Cabernet Franc), are the same two grapes that are in his beloved 1961 Château Cheval Blanc from St. Emillion in Bordeaux. Funny? Ironic? Ignorant? Arrogant? Maybe a little bit of each. Oh, and for the record, I am a big fan of this movie. I don't want my comments here to be misinterpreted as some sort of "thumbs down".

Merlot is starting to recover from the vicious kidney punch it received in that 2004 film; in fact it is coming back, and in a big way. Many people are starting to return to this once beloved grape, and it's good to see, because Merlot is capable of creating some spectacular wine (see below). And to be fair, it can easily be argued this infamous line actually did Merlot a favor. At the time, there was quite a bit of inferior Merlot on the market. Many growers and producers had been taking the varietal for granted. Pick, press, bottle... done! And consumers, for the most part, didn't seem to notice the difference. Then along comes Sideways, and everyone noticed. The problem was it became a mass boycott of the grape. Everyone wanted Pinot Noir or Syrah. Zinfandel was okay because it didn't get mentioned one way or the other. Cabernet Sauvignon survived because it's popularity simply cannot be touched.

But Merlot? "We are not drinking any *%!#ing Merlot!" became as popular as "May the Force Be With You", and "Go ahead, make my day" for movie quotes. I knew a wine group who adopted that line as their motto. T-Shirts are still readily available with that quote printed on them. And when I meet with winemakers at the shop who happen to produce Merlot, they still refer to it as "that movie", refusing to acknowledge Sideways by name. As a result, what happened? Growers, winemakers and proprietors had to go out and bring people back. The best way to do that was to start making better Merlot, which they did.

Merlot is now more concentrated, rich, fragrant and vibrant. It has become more complex, sophisticated and intricate. As with any varietal, you might stumble across one that is lean, austere or diluted, but just look for one from a label you know. For instance, Ramspeck makes a very good and popular Cabernet Sauvignon. But I actually prefer their Merlot. Twenty Rows is another example. Their Merlot is as good as, if not better than, their Cabernet. Napa Cellars makes a dynamite Zinfandel, but their Merlot is just as stellar.

And as I've been writing, I've been enjoying a half-bottle of 2006 Barnett Vineyards Merlot from the Spring Mountain District in Napa Valley. Now this is a higher-end wine (hence the half-bottle), but it really shows what Merlot is capable of. I had the pleasure of tasting this wine with proprietor Hal Barnett last week. This is an amazing, gorgeous wine. Hal called it "a Cabernet-drinker's Merlot." It is full-bodied, robust, sexy and muscular. The wine exhibits loads of dark plum, ripe berry fruit and oak. Juicy firm tannins, herbs and rich, velvety blackberry round out the finish. Absolutely delicious.

Other Merlot of note:


Château Pétrus, from Pomerol in Bordeaux, France. One of the most highly collectible, decorated and priciest wines ever, is 100% Merlot.

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Masseto from Bolgheri in Tuscany, Italy. It is often referred to as the Pétrus of Italy. This wine is recognized throughout the wine community for its excellence. 100% Merlot.

Now I personally don't know anyone who can afford these wines, but I list them simply as proof that Merlot can produce wines of legendary quality. So go ahead, it's alright... drink some *%!#ing Merlot!

"A man cannot make him laugh - but that's no marvel; he drinks no wine."
~WM. SHAKESPEARE, Henry IV Part 2