THE LATEST AND GREATEST

Time flies when you're having fun... and drinking (good) wine. I'm happy to say the last several weeks have been full of both. I've been having fun at Central Market, watching the TCU Horned Frogs bid for a national title, and spending time with my wife and family. And the following wines have played a role.

2004 Cedarville Syrah, El Dorado, CA
~2004 was a stellar vintage for California Syrah, and this wine seems to be hitting it's peak. It is complex, thick and full-bodied with delicious layered flavors blackberry, chocolate, earth and pepper spice. It is velvety smooth and possesses a long finish. The co-fermentation with a touch of Viognier adds elegance and grace to an otherwise powerhouse of a wine. Loved it!

2007 Seghesio Zinfandel, Sonoma, CA
~This is not the first time I've commented on this wine. In fact, it appeared in my very first post. But, I recently and reluctantly finished my last bottle of this beauty. And it was outstanding. It still showed that luscious boysenberry/blueberry fruit, white pepper and juicy tannins I remembered, but it also seemed a bit more refined now; the velvet mouth-feel had turned to silk.

2002 Yalumba, "The Octavius", Old Vine Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Australia
~I had heard and read so many incredible reviews of this wine (96 points from the Wine Advocate, for one) that I have been wanting to come up with an excuse to open it. I figured TCU's wine over Utah was as good a reason as any, so that's what I did. And it was an appropriate wine to have... purple and awesome! This was a blockbuster of a wine with tremendous blackberry fruit, chocolate, cassis, with suggestions of game meats. It had huge concentration and extraction, and an absolutely phenomenal finish. This one was a wine to savor.

(Note: "Old Vine" is just that; grapes that have been sourced from older vines. While there is no set age or agreement as to what constitutes "old vine", you can usually count on them being at least 3o years old, although most are likely over 50 years of age. The vines produce smaller yields that lead to more concentrated and intense wines).

2006 Evergreen Vineyards, "HK-1", Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, OR
~This was one of our Thanksgiving wines, and it was a perfect match for turkey (both white and dark meat) and all the fixings. It showed lovely cherry and cranberry, accompanied by campfire smoke (you know it when you smell it!), cola and wet stone. The balanced acidity went hand and hand with the delicious flavors. I first tasted this wine at the London Wine Fair, and was thrilled when I saw it at Central Market.

Conserve water. Drink wine!

"A man cannot make him laugh - but that's no marvel; he drinks no wine."
~WM. SHAKESPEARE, Henry IV Part 2

LET'S GO BORDEAUX

"He who aspires to be a serious wine drinker must drink claret."

(“claret” being the British term for red Bordeaux) --- Samuel Johnson

I have to agree with Mr. Johnson's sentiments on Bordeaux. Now don't get me wrong; I enjoy and appreciate wines from all over the world. I love drinking quality wines from California, Washington, Chile and Argentina, Italy, Spain, and other regions of France. But inevitably, my heart (and palate) come back to Bordeaux. There is just something about a good bottle of Bordeaux; it's classy, elegant and stylish... and quite delicious. Fall and Winter are the perfect time to pop open (Bordeaux will NEVER succumb to screw-caps) and enjoy some of these delicious offerings.

2006 Chateau Chantemerle, Medoc ($22.95 @ Central Market)
~This wine showed lovely notes of Cassis, earth and cigar box. The tannins were firm, and the color was deep, indicating good concentration. Balanced acidity led to a lovely finish.

2005 Chateau Haut Nadeau, Bordeaux Superior ($15.95)
~Great value with this wine; it over-delivers for the money. Beautiful dark fruits, with hints of vanilla and graphite. Full-bodied and complex.

2005 Chateau Larrivaux, Haut-Medoc ($22.95)
~Blackberry, stewed tomato and tobacco are evident in this sweet-styled nose. This medium-bodied wine has an impressive fruit structure, combined with a clean yet spicy finish.

2005 Chateau La Croix Chantercaille, St. Emilion ($29.99)
~A beautiful wine from the St. Emilion, this Merlot-driven gem is incredibly enticing. Aromas of raspberry, blackberry and damp earth emanate from the glass, followed by delicious black cherry, dark chocolate and Asian tea flavors. Stunning wine for the money.

2005 Chateau Tour Massac, Margaux ($49.95)
~This wine is the second label for Chateau Boyd-Cantenac (meaning the chateau takes their leftover fruit to produce a wine with a different label). In great vintages (like 2005), these wines can be quite good. Such is the case with the Tour Massac. This wine showed beautiful aromatics, full of raspberry and cassis, along with some wet stone and cedar. But what really stood out was the texture; pure silk and elegance.

Bordeaux produces tantalizing wines that pair incredibly well with food due to their higher acidity. If you haven't tried them, don't hesitate to branch out and sample some of the wines from France's legendary regions.

Viva la France!

"A man cannot make him laugh - but that's no marvel; he drinks no wine."
~WM. SHAKESPEARE, Henry IV Part 2

NEW JOB = NEW WINES!

It would be irresponsible of me to sell wine to customers without having first tried them myself, so the last couple of weeks I've been "donating" part of my pay to try and sample a fraction of the 2500 wines I'm responsible for helping move. Since there are so many, I'm not going to waste any more time... here we go!

2007 Boudinaud, "Côté Jardin", Côtes du Rhone, France
~A traditional and beautiful blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Plush, ripe, dark berry fruit that is jammy but smooth. There's just the right amount of spice and damp earth to keep this wine balanced without sacrificing character. A fun wine! The price is right, too... $12.95 at Central Market.

2007 Delas Freres, Côtes du Rhone "St. Esprit", France
~Wines from the southern part of the Rhone are usually Grenache-based, but this elixir gets its power from Syrah (75%), with help from Grenache (25%). This gorgeous wine has loads of black fruits, zesty spice... and attitude. It is almost as if the wine is saying, "Yeah, I'm $12, so what?"
A 90 pointer from the Wine Advocate.

2006 Bogle, "The Phantom", California
~A mystical blend of 49% Petite Sirah, 49% Old Vine Zinfandel, and 2% Mourvedre, this wine is a limited, seasonal release. Deep, full-bodied and opulent, with succulent blackberry fruit, licorice, black pepper and black tea. The fruit for this wine was sourced from appellations known for these varietals: Lodi, Clarksberg and Amador. This wine will drink well now, but will get better with a little bottle age. Very impressive, and at $20, an excellent buy.

2008 McManis Family Vineyards, Chardonnay, California
~I've been a big fan of the McManis line-up for quite a while. These are always quality wines that consistently over-deliver, and the 2008 Chardonnay is no exception. This is a full-bodied white, viscous and rich. Pear, ripe apple and white flowers are evident in the bouquet. The flavors confirm the apples, along with vanilla and buttered toast on the finish. If you should see any of the McManis wines, don't hesitate to pick them up! They all retail for under $15, and usually less... $12.98 at Central Market.

2008 Silverlake Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, Rattlesnake Hills, Washington
~This wine reminded me of a Cru Bourgeois from Bordeaux; an inexpensive but quality wine. It truly does have a Bordeaux quality; firm tannins, cassis and blackberries, balanced acidity and lively oak. The blend is also in the tradition of Bordeaux, 58% Cabernet Sauvignon and 42% Merlot. A wonderful representation of what Washington wines are all about. (Yes, I'm aware that is a lot of "W"s; my wife says it's alliteration).

I'll be reviewing some more wines soon. Hey... it's part of my job.

"A man cannot make him laugh - but that's no marvel; he drinks no wine."
~WM. SHAKESPEARE, Henry IV Part 2

NEW BEGINNINGS

September is the time when many things begin anew. Besides the start of a new school year, it is also the beginning of a new football season for both college and the NFL (as I'm writing I'm watching the Steelers/Titans game). And in my case, this marks a new beginning for me, as I start a new job!

I've been hired as a Wine/Beer specialist for Central Market; a wonderful gourmet food store in the tradition of the fresh markets in Europe. The change was necessary, but definitely welcome. This company has an excellent reputation for taking care of their employees, something that was sadly lacking in my last position.

My first official shift was Thursday, September 9th, and it started off with a bang! The store was hosting a VIP, invitation only tasting that included some stunning wines. And towards the end of the evening, we got to sample some of these beauties. There were simply too many to list all of the wines that were opened, but here are the highlights.

2007 Querciabella, "Batar", Toscana, Italy
A gorgeous blend of 50% Pinot Blanc and 50% Chardonnay. Supple, ripe and elegent, with flavors of honey, ripe peaches and apricot, voluptious texture, and ample vanilla supplied by toasty oak. I had tasted previous vintages of Batar before, all of which were excellent. The 2007 is as good if not better.

2004 Chateau Cheval Blanc, St. Emilion, Bordeaux, France
I've been a huge fan of Cheval Blanc for quite some time (see this previous post), and while this might not be the most prestigious offering from this illustrious chateau, it certainly lives up to it's predecessor's reputation. A blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot, this wine showed a velvety texture with loads of blackberry, raspberry and plum, with notes of herb, mint, and damp earth. It is not everyone day one gets to taste a Cheval Blanc, so I made sure to take it all in!

2001 Chateau L'Eglise Clinet, Pomerol, Bordeaux
This was my first opportunity to taste a wine from this chateau, and I must say it was worth the wait. Merlot is the dominant grape (85%), with the remainder coming from Cabernet Franc. The 2001 vintage is often under-appreciated, but one sip from this winner will convince you it is a killer wine; dark fruits (especially prune) are enhanced by sweet oak, with notes of rose petals, licorice and sweet tannins. This is an opulent wine that should only get better with age.

2005 Chateau Le Dome, St. Emilion, Bordeaux, France
Another new wine for me, this wine is one of those "under the radar" wines not many have had the good fortune of tasting. As it is from the right bank region of St. Emilion, there is a high amount of Cabernet Franc. It was absolutely stupendous, probably my favorite of the tasting. This wine was full-bodied with sweet tannins, combined with ripe, opulent blackberry and boysenberry fruit, savory vanilla and a long, long finish that coated the palatte. This was an exquisite wine that was outsanding now, but will only get better with time.

2005 Angelo Gaja, Costa Russi, Barbaresco, Piedmonte, Italy
The name, "Gaja", is legendary for producing top-flight wines from the northern region of Piedmonte, and this offering certainly did not disappoint. Made from 100% Nebbiolo, this is an elegent and rich wine, balanced and full of flavor. With Barbaresco one expects acidity and flavor to be balanced; as is the case with the 2005 Costa Russi. Notes of dark cherry and cranberry were evident, with hints of tar, violets and licorice. I've always felt Piedmonte wines are an acquired taste, but the pay-off is exponential. Absolutely delicious!

A new job, tasting several new wines...a kick-off to remember!

Unfortunately, Pittsburgh still won. Oh well...can't win em' all.



"A man cannot make him laugh - but that's no marvel; he drinks no wine."
~WM. SHAKESPEARE, Henry IV Part 2

MY NEW TITLE

It is now official...I am a Sommelier.

I took the introductory course this past weekend, passed the test and have a certificate and lapel pin to prove it. I had been wanting to do this for a while, but somehow the timing never worked out. This particular course was through the Court of Master Sommeliers, which I had read and been told was the way to go. However, the CMS doesn't just offer up classes every week. Quite the opposite in fact, as this was only the second (and last time) the introductory course would be offered this year in the DFW area. So, I was grateful to have learned about it and sign up.

I've been into wine for about twelve years, on a professional as well as personal level, and often wondered how my knowledge stacked up against true sommeliers. The first thing I learned was how much I didn't know. It was a bit humbling and overwhelming, but at the same time, exciting. We had quite a bit of information thrown at us in a two-day period, and we were expected to know it all for the exam. Suffice to say if you had not prepared in the weeks leading up to the course, you were in trouble. And it wasn't just wine; sommeliers are expected to be knowledgeable in beer, spirits, sake and presentation.

Of course, it wasn't all lectures and power point presentations, there were tastings as well. At this level we're not required to pass a blind tasting, but we did practice (a blind tasting is just that; a glass of wine is presented and the taster has to ascertain the country, region, sub-appellation, grape and vintage). This is where experience comes in handy. We were each responsible for drawing final conclusions for two different wines. The first one was fairly easy, at least for me. The wine was a Sauvignon Blanc from Marlboro County, New Zealand. These wines have an incredibly distinctive feature that is instantly recognizable for me: tomato plant. If you grow tomatoes or have stuck your nose in a tomato plant you'll know what I mean. My grandfather used to grow tomatoes and I remember the smell so vividly. The first time I tried a Sauvignon Blanc from Marlboro I thought of Papaw's garden, and have every other time as well. And that's what happened this time. I knew what it was right away. There were 26 others in the class but no one else came up with it. So I raised my hand, stood up (which was required), and gave the varietal (grape), country, region and vintage (which was an educated guess, knowing 08's are the latest vintage released).

The second wine wasn't quite as obvious. We had established it was an old-world (European) wine, but the consensus was it was French, probably from the Rhone, which would mean Syrah. Again, I stood up, and said, "I respectfully disagree. This wine has a distinctive garnet coloring, but is full of tannins and acidity. I believe it is Italian, specifically Piedmont, from the Barolo district, making the grape Nebbiolo. The vintage is 2004."

There was silence. The master sommeliers looked at me, then at each other. The master sommelier running the tasting said, "well, I'm certainly glad you said you 'respectfully' disagreed." Uh-oh, I thought. I was sunk...totally blew it. He went to the box and pulled out the bottle. "This is a 2004 Elvia Cogno, Barolo...made from the Nebbiolo grape." Applause filled the room. I heard comments like, "Wow...how'd he know that?...very impressive." I even heard one "Holy Sh*t!". I may have even uttered that comment myself. Was I a bit surprised? Yes. Pleased? Absolutely!

My glory didn't last too long. Soon it was back to taking notes and trying to absorb all the information needed for the next day's exam. The one thing I knew was that there was a lot I didn't know. More information followed the second day, right up until the test. Seventy questions, multiple choice. It wasn't the easiest test I've ever taken, but I passed. The rumor was they announced those who passed in ascending order, so the last one named had the highest score. I was fifth from the last, so I guess I did pretty well, if the rumor was accurate. Either way, I'm happy to have my pin and certificate!

I came home and celebrated by opening my last bottle of 1997 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. My wife and I watched Bottle Shock, and she didn't mind at all as I kept pausing it to explain all the wine references. After all, I'm a Sommelier.

"A man cannot make him laugh - but that's no marvel; he drinks no wine."
~WM. SHAKESPEARE, Henry IV Part 2

VACATION WINE

I've heard said that everything is better on vacation. The air is cleaner, you sleep better, the food is better, and so is the wine, for that matter. All of which were proven to be true last week while in the Grand Tetons of Wyoming.

This was a family affair; nine of us total. The guest ranch (Triangle X) we stayed at allowed the guests to bring their own adult beverages. And since my wife and I were driving, I packed a few bottles of wine (and a bottle of bourbon--I was a Cowboy, after all) to have during our stay.

*Side note about Triangle X. This is a wonderful place. The people bend over backwards, you eat like a king (or queen), they cater to families--offering different activities for all age groups, and the scenery...well, words don't do it justice.

Okay, so back to the wine.

I brought a bottle of 2006 Dark Horse Winery, "The Gunfigher", Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District, Napa Valley. I thought the name was appropriate considering where we were and how I was dressing (alas, I was not armed). I've had this wine on multiple occasions, and it has always been good juice. However for some reason, maybe it was the altitude, maybe it was my attitude, I don't know...but it went up a notch, from being good, to being great! The wine showed such lovely dark fruit characteristics; blackberry, blueberry and cassis, with hints of chocolate and coffee, and even some liquorice and tobacco. It was rich, succulent and enticing. I wish I had brought more than one bottle. It paired great with the pulled brisket we had for dinner.

The next wine was also a California Cabernet, 2005 Field Stone, Alexander Valley. Again, something I've had several times, and have never been disappointed. I've always found this wine to be very elegant, sleek and sophisticated. And it was all that, and much more. The fruit, which has always been evident in this wine, announced itself in a profound and definitive way. Loads of dark cherry, raspberry and blackberry jumped out of the glass. It also showed hints of spice, earth and finished with well-rounded, juicy tannins, while keeping that silky elegance I've come to really enjoy. And the price is hard to beat at $18 a bottle.

Last, but certainly not least, I brought a bottle of 2004 Montes Alpha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Chile. This was actually one of Dad's wines, and I figured this would be an ideal time to open it (more on that later). It had some bottle age on it, and I believe it greatly benefited from its time in the bottle. I had not had this wine before, but was thoroughly impressed. A number of Chilean wines show some bell pepper, or other green-like characteristics, but this was one was showing gorgeous dark fruit, damp earth, some stewed tomato and had a long, lively finish.

Part of the reason for our family trip was to scatter some of Dad's ashes. He loved Wyoming, and we took several trips there while my sister and I were growing up, and he and my mom continued to visit there after we were grown. So, I was compelled to bring a bottle from his collection to enjoy while we were there.

We shared old memories and created new ones. And it is true; the air is cleaner, I did sleep sounder, and the wine was definitely better. Not a bad week at all.

"A man cannot make him laugh - but that's no marvel; he drinks no wine."
~WM. SHAKESPEARE, Henry IV Part 2

HAPPY BIRTHDAY AMERICA!

"...with Liberty and Justice for ALL."

"A man cannot make him laugh - but that's no marvel; he drinks no wine."
~WM. SHAKESPEARE, Henry IV Part 2